by Bob Mariani

Melicia Phillips and her husband, Chef Sai Viswanath, have transformed a rustic 1818 harbor side warehouse in Bristol into a cozy, two-story Tavern with stone walls and aged wood floors. It fits Bristol's seafaring atmosphere along Thames Street perfectly. But what's most remarkable here is the sophistication and style that Chef Sai brings to your table. He holds degrees from the Culinary Institute of America where he also taught, and from the hotel school in Madras, India. His press sheet says he has "traveled the world refining his cuisine, holding positions as Chef of the renowned Indigo in Mumbai, India (voted one of the world's best 60 restaurants by Conde Nast) and at Union Square in New York City."

Inspired by Rhode Island's rich bounty of fresh seafood, Chef Sai has created a unique American menu with just the subtlest hints of the very best Indian spices. His mastery is in his ability to balance and focus flavors in a variety of very memorable ways. Witness one of his starters-sweet potato gnocchi with a braised short rib, garnished with toasted pecans and accents of blue cheese and frissee. Every flavor here works beautifully: the warm, mild sweet potato pasta is a subtle contrast to the stronger beefy flavor of the meat. Then there is the hint of sharp sourness from the cheese and the sweet crunch of the pecans.

Another winning dish is Chef Sai's plump jumbo shrimp roasted in a charcoal Tandoor oven and served with delicate coconut-lentil bisque and accented by a ginger-carrot slaw. For a deliciously understated sweet-and-sour experience, there is Chef Sai's "tuna pastrami"; thinly sliced tuna with a rum and pineapple glaze served with crisp fresh shallots.

In the entrée department, I can find little to compare with the exquisite blending of the roasted trout stuffed with chorizo cornbread and served on a bed of creamed spinach, its multi-levels of flavors both new and familiar will have your eyes rolling with pleasure. There is also a remarkable "seafood goulash" that pairs delicate crabmeat pilaf with a wrap of cooked cabbage. The Tandoor chicken au jus lives up to its title. It is indeed juicy and comes with a succulent Brussel sprout hash and a sweet potato Gratin that complement it perfectly. Most prices for entrees range from about $16 to $27.

Desserts are all original conceptions and house-made and none will disappoint. A standout among several excellent choices is the warm chocolate banana bread sandwich with rum raisin ice cream and butterscotch sauce.

DeWolf also has a paired down nightly tavern menu with a couple of wonderful 3-course combinations that include a glass of house wine for $24.95. Wednesday night is "Burger Night", and there's a Cognac Bar offering cognac, grappa and single barrel bourbons.

DeWolf is open every night for dinner. 254-2005.

Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.

Rhode Island Journal
by Robert Mariani

Ever heard of a ãlobster popover? Neither had I until the night I dined at the beautifully restored DeWolf Tavern (259 Thames Street; 401-254-2005; www.dewolftavern.com) on Bristol Harbor, certainly one of the loveliest spots on the coastline. It turned out to be one of those terrific ideas youâre surprised no one's thought of before. But Chef Sai Viswanath and his wife Melicia Phillips have loaded their menu with great ideas in the modern American mold with plenty of New England latitude and a few Indian spices. In fact, I'd have to say that this cozy waterfront tavern adjacent to the harborside hotel is definitely one of the most interesting additions to Rhode Island's culinary scene in quite some time.

Stripped down to its bare granite walls and exposed ceiling beams, with sleek new bars upstairs and down, and a lovely harbor view, this former 1818 warehouse has warmth and a true New England ambiance. The upstairs dining room would be anyone's idea of coziness. Every wall seems to sag a little, and floors tend to slant. There's a delightful fireplace, the table settings are excellent, candles are lit, and good baguettes are presented upon sitting down to an extremely well focused menu and wine list.

As for that lobster popover, I was concerned that it would be extremely heavy. Not so. The crisp popover was light and airy; split down the middle, it made a perfect little soup dish for a ladle of savory lobster bisque with juicy lobster chunks, which seemed to have been cooked with the soup instead of being added later. It was accompanied by a small salad of warm wilted field greens that complemented the bisque perfectly. My wife began with the baby arugula salad with vinaigrette dressing, shaved fennel, red onion slices so thin you could see through them, tiny bacon bits for a smoky note, and tangy blood orange chunks. Nothing perfunctory about this salad: it was a great way to get your taste buds' attention before the main  course.

There are eleven entrees, including a vegetarian plate. I wanted to try everything on the menu: a fricassee of swordfish with white wine, champagne grapes, exotic mushrooms and scallions; pan-roasted salmon with a rouille in Ajwain tomato broth with vegetable vermicelli pilaf; a grilled Delmonico steak with sweet potato and bacon gratin; tandoori baby chicken au jus with Brussels sprout hash and sweet potato gratin; and roast quail filled with mushroom Biryani with a truffled soubise sauce. I finally opted for grilled baby veal chops. Bite-size and delicate, they'd been cooked just beyond pink and came in a nest of fresh fettuccine with a lean red sauce of tomatoes, black olives, roasted red peppers and a blend of seasonings that somehow mixed the familiar with the exotic in an extremely satisfying way. As you can tell, Mr. Viswanath's Indian background influences an array of seasonings here, and in a sense recalls New England's history as a spice  trade market.

My wife ordered the roast trout with chorizo cornbread stuffing. The fish was hefty and cooked perfectly, and the stuffing was very light, adding just the right texture. But what absolutely thrilled us was the creamed spinach sauce. It was a very smooth puree that at first tasted like the traditional Indian saag but then blossomed on my tongue into a soft, sweet burst of flavors like ginger and saffron, none overpowering, with a subtle, perfect balance. As an added note, there was a small dollop of delicately shredded spaghetti squash that brought a sweet, ginger note to complete the experience. This is one of those memorable dishes that really satisfies without filling you up.

There are about a half-dozen dessert items. But for those incapable of choosing among temptations there's also a dessert sampler that contains a luscious mouthful of chocolate lava cake with a kirsch cherry center; a tantalizing hazelnut mousse in a little chocolate cage; warm apple  cheddar bread pudding with a caramel sauce; a delicate fruit crisp with creme fraïche; and my favorite--a warm chocolate chip banana bread sandwich with rum raisin ice cream and butterscotch sauce. There was not a misstep in the lot and any one of the choices will get your eyes rolling. Having a chance to taste each one was the perfect ending to a ravishingly good meal.

DeWolf also has a brief but very interesting tavern menu that changes nightly, and a stripped-down bar menu with items like southern fried chicken lollipops with mint ranch dressing and fruit chutney ($9); or steamed mussels ($10) in a saffron and white wine, or a coconut milk, chili and curry leaf sauce.

First courses range in price from $5 to $12. Entrée prices range from $16 to $36.